Artimes Farshad Yeganeh

Artimes Farshad Yeganeh

Personal information
Nationality	Iranian
Born	May 27, 1981 Tehran, Iran
Occupation	Rock climber, Climbing coach and Route setter
Height	175 centimetres (5 ft 9 in)
Weight	62 kilograms (137 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber	Sport climbing
Highest grade	Redpoint: 8b+ (5.14a) On-sight: 8a (5.13b) Bouldering: 7C+ (V10)
Medal record National Championships 2006 Lead 2002 Lead Groups Cup 2000 National Competition Fajr Championships 2006 National Competition 2002 International Competition 1998 National Competition Tehran Province Championships 2001 Lead 2002 Lead 2003 Lead 2004 Lead 2006 Lead 2007 Lead 2008 Lead 2009 Lead 2005 Lead 2010 Lead 2012 Lead 2013 Lead 2013 Bouldering 2014 Lead Tehran Province League 2010 Lead 2011 Lead
Updated on 11 Dec 2014.

Artimes Farshad Yeganeh (Persian: آرتیمس فرشاد یگانه ‎‎, born 27 May 1981 in Tehran, Iran) is an Iranian rock climber who has been climbing for 19 years.^[1][2][3][4] He also participates in sport climbing and bouldering competitions and is one of the most famous Iranian climbers.

Biography

Yeganeh started climbing at age 12 (1993). He lived in the mountains that surround Tehran and he would accompany his father and his friends on climbs. The first time he went to Band-e Yakhchal to mountain climb, he climbed a 5.10c route on-sight on Chakme. His interest in the sport, advice available to him and his abilities enabled him to successfully pass many climbing courses. This experience and judgment was a key factor to be a good teacher and coach in climbing. His competition performance resulted in him being awarded many medals in this sport.

Yeganeh was elected as one of the five member among sport climbing experts over Tehran province to make Tehran climbing league’s statute. ^[5][6][7] Then, He participated as a first Iranian Alpine Club’s representative in bouldering world cup of 2009 in France.^[8][9] As he truly is well known for Lead climbing, he also Solo climbed 2 routes.^[10] Currently, Artimes and another person (Amin Abbasi) are the only Iranian official route setters.^[11]

Positions

Here are some positions he was in charge:

• 2007 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2008 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2009 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2010 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2011 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2013 – Tehran Rebolting Committee
• 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Route Setting Committee
• 2014 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing–Sport Climbing Competition Committee
• 2015Template:BrashHead Coach of Iran Sport Climbing Youth National Team
• 2016Template:BrashHead Coach of Iran Sport Climbing Youth National Team

and also:

• Tehran League – Founding Member-2009

Coaching

Coaching Certificates

• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 1
• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 2
• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 3
• Rock Climbing Federation of Germany – Sport Climbing Coach Level 1, Level 2 and Level C1

Coaching Experiences

Gym	Time
Emam Ali University	2003-2006
Army	2005-2006
Davoudi	2005-2008
Tarbiat Modarres University Climbing Gym	2005-current
ArmenianClimbing Gym Sipan	2012-current
MSFI Sport Climbing National Team Coach	2014-current

Route Setting ^[11]

Route Setting Certificates

• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 1
• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 2
• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – National Sport Climbing Route Setter
• AFSC – Continental Sport Climbing Route Setter

Route Setting Experiences

• Chief Route Setter ^[5]
• 2009 – Chief Route Setter–National Championship
• 2007 – Chief Route Setter–Junior and Youth National Championship,
• 2006 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
• 2007 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
• 2011 – Route Setter–Master Cup international Competition
• 2012 – Route Setter–Asian Championships
• 2015 – Route Setter – Asian Youth Championship
• 2014 – Chief Route Setter–National Championship

National Team Membership^{[1][2][3][4][8][9][12][13][14][15][16][17][18][19]}

• Junior National Team
  • 1999
• National Team
  • 2003
  • 2004 – China, Asian Championship
  • 2005 – Kerman (IRI), UIAA Asian Championship
  • 2006 – Kaoshiung (TPE), UIAA Asian Championships
  • 2007 – Qinghai (CHN), IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S)
  • 2009 – France, Bouldering Worldcup

Ranks and Medals

IFSC Climbing Worldcup^{[1][2][3][4][8][9][14][17][20][21][22]}

	2009
Bouldering	26

UIAA Asian Championships^{[1][2][3][12][13][15][16][23]}

	2005	2006
Lead	19	10

Fajr Championships ^[24]

	1998	2002	2006
Lead	3	3	2

National Championships

	2002	2006
Lead	3	1

Tehran Province Championships ^[5]

	2001	2002	2003	2004	2005	2006	2007	2008	2009	2010	2012	2013	2014
Lead	1	1	1	1	2	1	1	1	1	2	2	2	2
Lead												2

Tehran Province League ^[25]

	2010	2011
Lead	1	1

Groups Cup

	2000
Lead	2

Solo

• Mashalah, 7c, 20 meters, Overhanging & Roof, Kermanshah, Iran, 2006, First assent
• Gordefa, 7a+, 25 meters, Polokhab, Iran, 2006, First assent

Onsight

Here are some of his first ascent climbs:

Year	Name	Grade
2001	Speed	7c+
2002	Ashiane	8a+
2003	Iran	7c+
2004	Iran Swiss	8b+
2005	Khashol	7c
2006	Khoke chamosh	7c+
2007	Ashianedoe	8b+
2009	Solo	8b+/8c
2010	Tehran Guy	8a
2011	Father & Son	8a+

Roc Trips^[26]

• Petzl 2008
• Petzl 2009
• Petzl 2014

Filmography

• Mashalla ^[10]

Route

Here are some of the routes he Bolted:

Year	Name	Grade
2006	Khashol	7c
2006	Pichol	8b
2007	Khoke chamosh	7c+
2009	O+	7c
2008	Solo	8c,8c+
2009	Emperor project	8c/8c+
2007	Ashianedoe	8b+
2010	Tehran guys	8a
2011	Gladiator Project	8c+/9a
2011	Father and Son	8a+
2013	Vampire	8c
2014	Ati	7b+

References

1. "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
2. "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". Digital ROCK. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
3. "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". Digital ROCK. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
4. "آخرین تایج مسابقات جهانی تا این لحظه". Binalood. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
5. "Saeid Jaryani won the 5th round of Tehran's climbing league". Iran Mountain Zone. 15 December 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
6. "Statute of Tehran climbing league will be made". Iran Mountain Zone. 23 September 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
7. "Statute of Tehran climbing league will be made". Alpine Cub of Iran. 21 September 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
8. "Iran's Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting". Iran Mountain Zone. 10 September 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
9. "Iran's Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting". Alpine Climb of Iran. 10 September 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
10. "MASHALAH {7C}". Mandis Tafreshian. 23 January 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
11. "Officials Resources". IFSC-Climbing.org. 7 August 2014. Retrieved 1 November 2014.
12. "UIAA Asian Championship - Iran 2005". Digital ROCK. 23 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
13. "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006". Digital ROCK. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
14. "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". Digital ROCK. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
15. "UIAA Asian Championship - Iran 2005". IFSC Climbing. 23 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
16. "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006". IFSC Climbing. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
17. "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
18. "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006 Startlists". IFSC Climbing. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
19. "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
20. "Ergebnis: Lead-Weltcup in Qinghai (CHN) - Herren". Ergebnis. 13 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
21. "Re: 20070811青海世界盃最新成績公告". mountaineering.org.tw. 15 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
22. "IFSC Lead World Cup – Qinghai(CHN) 2007" (PDF). ffme. 13 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
23. "UIAA Asian Championship Iran 2005". IFSC and DR. 24 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
24. "10th Fajr Climbing Championship in men's category came to its end". Iran Mountain Zone. 24 January 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
25. "TMU club fixed in its place at the top of Tehran Climbing League". Iran Mountain Zone. 9 July 2011. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
26. "Roctrip im Zillertal: Zwischen Kuhglocken und Ultimate Route". klettern. 29 August 2008. Retrieved 31 October 2014.

External links