Carl Wilhelm Rubenson

Carl Wilhelm Rubenson (30 July 1885 – 29 July 1960) was a Swedish-born Norwegian mountaineer and non-fiction writer. In 1906 he made several first ascents in Jotunheimen, together with Ferdinand Schjelderup and Agnes Jachelln.[1] In 1907 he reached a record height of 7,270 m at the Himalayan mountain Kabru, together with Ingvald Monrad Aas, the highest altitude anybody had reached until then.[2][3] He co-founded the Norwegian mountaineering club Norsk Tindeklub in 1908, together with Alf Bryn, Ferdinand Schjelderup, Henning Tønsberg and others.[1][2] He made the first ascent of the Norwegian mountain Stetind in 1910, together with Alf Bonnevie Bryn and Ferdinand Schjelderup.[4] The three climbers reached the top of Stetind on 30 July 1910,[4] on Rubenson's 25th birthday.[3] This was the first of a number of first ascents to follow the next two weeks in Northern Norway. On 1 August Rubenson, Bryn and Schjelderup made the first ascent of Svolværgeita, on the Lofoten island of Austvågøy. Their route is called 1910 Ruta, or in English: The 1910 Route. This route includes a famous diagonal traverse across the north wall of the mountain, which was led by Rubinson. The group reached the top by 11 pm on 1 August.[5] On 3 August 1910 the same group climbed Trakta on Northern Austvågøy, a mountain considered among the hardest summits to reach in Norway. Also this was a first ascent, where they climbed the main summit (Vestre Trakta) via the Northwest Ridge.[5] Rubenson was part of the group that first attempted a winter ascent of Store Skagastølstind, but this attempt failed because of harsh snow conditions and risk of avalanches.[1]

Among Rubenson's books are Fjeldsport før og nu and Med telt og husbaat i Kashmir, both from 1923. He was awarded honorary membership of both the British Alpine Club and Norsk Tindeklub.[1][2]

Stetind was first climbed in 1910 by Bryn, Rubenson and Schjelderup.[4]

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 Lauritzen, Per Roger, ed. (2009). "Rubenson, Carl Wilhelm". Norsk Fjelleksikon (in Norwegian). Friluftsforlaget. ISBN 978-82-91-49547-7.
  2. 1 2 3 Godal, Anne Marit (ed.). "Carl Wilhelm Rubenson". Store norske leksikon (in Norwegian). Oslo: Norsk nettleksikon. Retrieved 27 October 2012.
  3. 1 2 Per, Hohle (1968). "Norsk tindesport gjennom hundre år". Hundre år i fjellet. Den Norske Turistforening 1868–1968 (in Norwegian). Den Norske Turistforening. pp. 86–99.
  4. 1 2 3 Lauritzen, Per Roger, ed. (2009). "Stetind". Norsk Fjelleksikon (in Norwegian). Friluftsforlaget. ISBN 978-82-91-49547-7.
  5. 1 2 Webster, Ed (1994). Climbing in the Magic Islands. A climbing and hiking guidebook to the Lofoten Islands of Norway. Henningsvær: Nord Norsk Klatreskole. pp. 12–14; 207–208; 238–240.
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