Kolhapuri chappal

Kolhapuri chappal

Kolhapuri chappals are Indian hand-crafted leather slippers that are locally tanned using vegetable dyes. Kolhapuri Chappals or Kolhapuris as they are commonly referred to are a style of open-toed, T-strap sandal which originated from Kolhapur, a southern district in the state of Maharashtra.

History

According to historic records, Kolhapuris were first worn as early as the 13th century. Previously known as Kapashi, Paytaan, Kachkadi, Bakkalnali, and Pukari, the name indicated the village where they were made.

Official government documents state that in the late 1920s the Saudagar family developed an indigenous design of chappal, which was thinner than the original and had two side flaps, which gave it the name "Kanwali" or a chappal with ears. It also had a decorative upper. It was sent to Bombay and was noticed by J.J. and Sons, a prominent footwear retailer that still operates in the Prarthana Samaj neighborhood in South Mumbai. They ordered 20 pairs of new designs of Kanwalis and sold them in Bombay. The increased demand for Kanwalis had prompted Saudagar family to teach the skill of making these chappals to others. J.J and Sons got an order from Calcutta where this type of chappals became more popular.

Making

It can take up to 6 weeks to make a pair of Kolhapuris.^[1] Originally made from buffalo-hide and thread, they weighed as much as 2.01 kilos because of the thickness of the sole, which made them durable despite the extreme heat and mountainous terrain found in the state of Maharashtra. Kolhapuri Chappals today is a dying art. The continuous effort to ban beef has cause a severe shortage of leather and skyrocketing leather prices have had an effect on the artisans who are skilled in making these Chappals.

Today Kolhapuri Chappals today are made out of leather using cowhide, buffalo hide and goat skin.

The making of Kolhapuri Chappals includes gluing multiple layers of leather under high pressure and drying for long periods under direct sunlight further tans the leather and merges the layers together to make them inseparable. Then the top portion is made using various metal tools, stitching, carving,gluing and coloring and then attached to the sole. The complete process can take upto 2 weeks.

Design & Durability

The designs have moved from the ethnic to ones with more utilitarian value and materials from primal hard materials to softer and more comfortable to wear materials. The artisans themselves designed ethnic patterns and sold, but today the traders and businessmen with demand for cheap products drive the requirement of minimalist designs.

Kolhapuri chappals are known to last a lifetime if maintained well and not used in rainy seasons.

In the seventies, with the Hippie movement Kolhapuri chappals became a very popular footwear in the United States. The success faded out and recently came back influencing now models that are called called toe ring sandals.

Business trend

The business of Kolhapuri Chappals are seen by most as an obsolete trend. The artisan families making Kolhapuri Chappals from generations are moving to new business options as they are unable to meet the needs of the current generations. Kolhapuri Chappals require a continuous supply of quality leather and a change in the legal environment has acted as a catalyst towards the end of this age old art.

References

1. http://www.chappals.co.uk/kolhapuri/

• ipindiaservices.gov.in